| Years ago,
a friend of mine went to the roof of the world -- Tibet. Her
initial physiological reaction to the high altitude made her
feel depressed, until she saw the local men and women working
and dancing in the thinnest air in the world. She was deeply
affected by the splendor of their beautiful clothes, and by
the good humor and confidence radiating from them. She felt
that the optimism of the local people and their colorful clothes
symbolized the charm and dignity of their life in this secluded
outpost.
Indeed, clothes have unusual connotations on this snow-covered
plateau. They reflect the history, culture, beliefs, character
and wealth of the local people.
Long sleeved, broad robes worn loosely with a diagonal slant,
and women's aprons welted with colorful
stripes, might be the general idea people have about Tibetan
dress. There are, however, marked variances in the clothing
of different localities, influenced by the different strands
of their religion. Tibet's isolated environment has allowed
Tibetan clothing to evolve into a variety of distinctive and
characteristic styles.
Tibetan clothing consists mainly of a Tibetan robe and shirt.
The Tibetan robe is broad, and appears longer on the left
than on the right, as it is often fastened under the right
armpit. Robes are also secured with two cloth belts in red,
blue, or green.
The weather in northern Tibet, where herdsmen lead a nomadic
life in natural mountain pastures, is bitterly cold. As there
is a huge disparity between day and night time temperatures,
local herdsmen wear a furred robe all year round, which doubles
as a quilt at night. In daytime, people wear their left sleeve
only, or sometimes wear neither, and tying the two sleeves
at the waist. Today, the fashion of wearing only the left
sleeve, while exposing the right shoulder, is immediately
recognizable as Tibetan dress style.
The Tibetan furred robe is very bulky and said to have enough
room to accommodate a five or six-year old child in winter.
It has no pockets, but being fastened at the waist there is
plenty of room around the ribcage to carry daily necessities.
Clothes
worn by herdsmen in pasture areas are distinctive for their
decorative welts. They are also hemmed in black velveteen,
corduroy, or woolen cloth at the front and lower edges, and
cuffs, and the women wear aprons decorated with colorful cloth
stripes. The vista of herdsmen, roaming about under the blue
sky, white clouds, green grass, snowy mountains, among their
sheep and cattle, is a sight more beautiful than any landscape
painting.
Tibetan farmers, who live in the warm and damp climate of
southern Tibet, make their clothes from tweed, a kind of hand-woven
woolen cloth. Both men and women wear their clothes buttoned
to the right. Men's clothes are hemmed in colorful cloth or
with silk at the collar, cuffs, front, and lower edges. Other
than during the cold winter, women's outerwear is sleeveless.
The length of a Tibetan robe generally exceeds the wearer's
height, and when worn, the waist is lifted and fastened with
a belt.
The weather in Lhasa and Shannan Prefecture is warmer and
damper still. Here the men mainly wear double-layered robes,
and women dress in close-fitting robes and long-sleeved shirts,
with brightly decorated aprons at the waist.
The apron is one of the favorite items of clothing for Tibetan
women. According to Tibetan custom, they are the privileged
garments for married women only; single girls do not generally
wear them. Gonggar County in the Jiedexiu area of Shannan
Prefecture is synonymous with aprons, having produced them
for 500 or 600 years.
Festivals are the best opportunity to observe and enjoy Tibetan
clothes. Nagqu Town in northern Tibet holds a horse race every
year, and Tibetans gather at this fair dressed in their best.
Riders usually wear robes of azure, dark blue or pale green,
with red knickerbockers, or blue or black sports trousers,
and boots. Male spectators wear long furred robes in black,
blue, or yellow, hung with finely decorated Tibetan knives,
flints, snuff bottles, and silver coins at the waist. Women
wear hats hemmed in colors that match the hemming on all their
other garments, right down to the boots. They wear gold, silver,
and copper adornments on their long braids, large earrings
and necklaces, and strings of metal coins decorating their
waists that jingle musically in the breeze.
Tibetan people like to be richly bejeweled, and regard dress
and adornment as the symbol of wealth
and beauty. No matter how poor a family might be, they buy
jewelry to bolster their confidence before others. Today,
the personal adornments worn by a wealthy Tibetan may be worth
tens of thousands to over a million yuan.
Tibetan people are devout Buddhists. In the 7th Century, Songstan
Gampo, the national hero of Tibet, married princess Wencheng
of the Tang Dynasty, and a Nepalese princess, each of whom
brought a statue of Sakyamuni, one from the east and the other
from west. From that time onwards, Buddhism spread throughout
Tibet and gradually evolved into the unique Tibetan Buddhism
that has been practiced for centuries.
Tibetan Buddhism not only affects people's ideas and behavior
but also influences their taste in dress and personal adornment.
In Buddhist culture, white symbolizes holiness, and in their
daily life Tibetans adore this shade, regarding it as emblematic
of purity and auspiciousness. Consequently, they like to wear
white shirts or hem their skirts with white fabric. Tibetan
people make lavish use of the colors red, yellow, orange,
blue, and dark green for articles of personal adornment, which
also reflects the Buddhist influence, as Sakyamuni wears a
yellow kasaya, Guru Rinpoche wears a red hat, and Master Tsongkhapa
wears a yellow hat. The beads and ga'u (amulet) worn at the
chest by young men and women are also related to Buddhism.
The ga'u is believed to bring its wearer safety and wealth.
With the improvements in transportation between Tibet and
the hinterland, exchanges of materials, including clothes,
have flourished. Today, traditional Tibetan clothes are disappearing
and being replaced by modern Western-style suits, jeans, and
other contemporary fashions. Middle-aged women, though less
bold than younger people, might also wear a Western-style
suit jacket over their Tibetan dress, along with a traditional
hat decorated in gold and silver satin. This is a very popular
way of dressing in Tibet, and demonstrates the Tibetan tolerance
of outside culture.
.jpg) The
personal ornaments worn by girls in the hinterland, such as
silver bracelets with turquoise inlets, and silver necklaces
inlaid with agate and other local jewels also reflect the
Tibetan influence.
Many fashion designers derive their inspiration from traditional
Tibetan clothes. In July 2000, the first Chinese Ethnic Garment
and Adornment Exposition, sponsored by the State Ethnic Affairs
Commission, was held in Kunming. Traditional Tibetan clothes
evoked praise and admiration from all members of the audience.
The designs of Wu Haiyan, Chinese female fashion designer,
were all styled on the Tibetan model.
Among the displays at this exposition, the most valuable was
that comprising four suits of Tibetan clothes, selected and
sent by the Tibet Autonomous Prefecture of Deqen, Yunnan Province.
TheTibetanrobes are lavishly embellished with gold, silver,
pearl, and agate ornaments. From these finely made and exquisitely
decorated garments, it seems possible to trace the entire
history of the development of Tibetan clothes.
Being the carrier of culture, Tibetan clothing has not only
aroused the curiosity but also the sincere respect of people
the world over.
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